Stylist Tips

START WITH THE BIG PICTURE Each season, begin with a wardrobe review and a reconnaissance trip.
TAKE STOCK OF WHAT YOU'VE GOT Go through your closet and weed out anything that's worn out, ill fitting or dated. Then make a list of fill-ins-black wool pants, a black turtleneck, etc. "If you know where the holes are, looks will come together more easily," says Jesse Garza of Visual Therapy, a personal-style service based in N.Y.C. and L.A.
MAKE A ROUGH BUDGET Looking for a plan for the year? Fall and winter clothes cost more than spring and summer ones, so allocate two thirds of your budget for cold-weather months. "Nationally, people spend between 5 and 10 percent of their take-home income on clothing," says Steve Boorstein, author of The Ultimate Guide to Shopping and Caring for Clothing.
GET A FEEL FOR WHAT'S NEW If you have time, it's worth doing a preview trip to the stores at the start of the season. Don't buy; just check out colors, textures and themes, and think about how fresh pieces will enhance what you already have.
DO SOME BROWSING ON THE NET While you're scouting around, look up your favorite stores online. According to Jason Woods of RPA (Retail Planning Associates) in Columbus, Ohio, sites for many retail stores display all stock in a specific category (e.g., "women's coats") so you can do some serious work before you leave home.
KNOW YOU M.O. "Some people are fabulous at buying summer clothes but not things for fall, or they buy pants all the time and no tops," says author Brenda Kinsel, a California image consultant. "Be aware of your habits and keep a balance."
WHEN TO SHOP The a.m. is the best. Major shopping excursions are easiest early in the week, in the late morning (between 10:30 and noon) so you beat the lunch rush. Stores fill up later in the week, and Saturday is the busiest day. (If you must shop on Saturday, try to arrive just as stores are opening.) If you can't make it in the morning, try shopping from 6 to 9 p.m.
SHOP WHEN THE WEATHER IS VERY BAD-OR VERY GOOD Heavy rain keeps the crowds away, as does the sun. "On a beautiful day stores are empty because people are going to the beach, not the malls," says celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe Rosenzweig.
MONITOR YOUR MOOD "Don't shop when you're really hungry or really tired," says stylist Phillip Bloch. "I never find anything, and then I'm really cranky."
PICK YOUR TARGET
Decide whether to head for a department store, specialty chain or boutique. Each has its virtues.
FACTOR IN RETURNS If you like time to think about things, stick to department stores; many allow 30 days for returns. "This way the decision is less stressful," says Rosenzweig. "You can go home and say, 'I'm not really in love with this, 'and then bring it back."
CONSIDER SOME EXTRAS Specialty chains like Banana Republic and most department stores offer tailoring. Many department stores also provide delivery, personal-shopping services, trunk shows where you can meet designers, and lingerie fitters to help you find the right bra. And chains and department stores like Marshall Field's and Nordstrom will often go the extra mile when it comes to finding a certain pair of shoes or jacket in your size from another store, even if it's on sale.
FOLLOW YOUR BLISS If you have a favorite boutique or specialty chain, start there. A store whose style reflects your own will give you a "better batting average" when it comes to finding what you want, says Tricia Tunstall, who is co-owner of P.45, a Chicago boutique.
GO TO A BOUTIQUE FOR AN EDITED SELECTION OF CLOTHES Many smaller stores offer newer, off-the -beaten-path designers and reflect the owner's aesthetic. At boutiques you'll find "unique pieces that make a statement," says Diane Parente, director of the On Request Shopping Service for the Village at Corte Madera in Walnut Creek, Calif. Pricey, high-end boutiques like Louis Boston in Boston and Jeffrey in New York City and Atlanta feature first-rate salespeople, amazing service (Jeffrey often selects clothing for out-of-town clients and sends on approval) and expertly targeted advice.
RETURNS Know the rules before you buy. Standard policy tends to allow two weeks, with the receipt and price tags required for a full refund. Sheila Adkins of the Better Business Bureau warns that some merchants are tightening return restrictions. Numerous stores offer store credit only, and often items bought on sale cannot be returned at all. Stores should state their return policy either at the bottom of the receipt or in another prominent location, but check with the cashier before you make your purchase. Some credit-card companies offer returned-goods benefits. With American Express, for example, if a store will not take back an item you bought on the card, American Express can refund the full purchase price within 90 days, up to $300 per item, and up to a maximum of $1,000 annually per account.

USING A PERSONAL SHOPPER
LOOK THIS WAY Most high-end department stores have personal-shopping consultants; it's a service that's free and available to anyone. A pricier alternative is hiring an independent personal shopper (about $100 to $275 per hour). The Association of Image Consultants International maintains a database of certified members around the globe; to find one in your area, call 877-247-3319.
MEET YOUR MATCH Before making an appointment with a private shopper, you should ask how long she has been in business, what sort clients she has, and how much she charges, says Brenda Kinsel, author of In the Dressing Room with Brenda. When you meet with a shopper, make sure you're in sync: While her age and personal style can be different from yours, you want someone who's able to understand your own taste and requirements and will shop accordingly.
SKIP THE FOOTWORK After your first meeting, a department store shopper will pull a range of clothes for you to try on in the personal-shopping area. You're not obligated to buy what she chooses for you. If you work with an independent image consultant, she'll meet with you at home to assess your wardrobe. Later, she'll "pre-shop" and you can meet her afterward.
DO YOUR PART Be realistic about your budget and your needs; let you shopper know what you can afford. Bring a list of items you're looking for to your first meeting. Kinsel also asks clients to tear photos of styles they love from magazines; all of this "makes the process more efficient," she says.

KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE PRIZE
When it's time to shop, go prepared.
DRESS FOR ACTION When you go shopping, wear a thong or plain panties, a smooth nude-colored bra, and clothes that are easy to get in and out of-like pants and a sweater-plus shoes that slip on, like loafers. If you're looking for and evening gown, take along evening shoes and perhaps a strapless bra. And be ready to face the mirror. "Your hair and make-up should look good. If you look grubby, you won't like yourself in anything," cautions Nan Napier, owner of Tres Mariposas, an El Paso, Texas, boutique.
GO SOLO IF YOU'RE SERIOUS Shopping with a buddy can be confusing and inefficient, says Kinsel. "If you shop with a friend or a sister you may come back with their look." However, if you struggle with dressing-room decisions, "take a friend who will be truly honest about how things look on you," says fashion stylist Tina Chai. For a professionally trained eye, use a personal shopper.
CARRY A LIGHT BUT SPACIOUS TOTE You can stash small purchases or take along water or snacks to fortify yourself. Don't weigh yourself down, though: "Leave your heavier pocketbook at home," says Bloch.
UNDERSTAND STORE LAYOUT In many cases, the most expensive items are in the front half of the store, according to Jason Woods. "The things you see up front have the highest markup, because you're buying on trend," he says. If you're hunting for the sale racks, you'll often find them in the back left-hand corner, says Paco Underhill of the New York research and consulting firm Envirosell. "The idea is to drive consumers to the deepest corner of the store."
TRAIN YOUR EYE TO RECOGNIZE QUALITY "Browse through the priciest stores and look at the construction: Are jackets lined? Are the buttonholes well made?" suggests Stacy Wallace-Albert of thefashioneditor.com. "A good hem," she says, "should be invisible from the outside of the garment; all buttons, snaps and hooks should be sewed on securely." Learning to evaluate what you see will help you make good decisions, especially in bargain stores or consignment shops.
CONSIDER COLOR "Many of people have a lot of black in their wardrobe," says Fran Taylor, stylist for ABC-TV's The View. She suggests making an effort to try on things in many different colors, to refine your sense of what hues suit you. "When you find the best colors, buy them, because they may not be around next season."
IN THE FITTING ROOM, TRY AND TRY AGAIN By taking in everything that appeals you'll have the best chance of hitting pay dirt without having to get dressed and go out and shuffle through the racks again. It's hard to overdo this. "If you've picked out 25 items to try on, a natural selection process kicks in anyway," says Chai. "You start to think, Do I really want to try this on?"
IF IN DOUBT, TAKE IT HOME This is especially true if you're shopping at a store with a generous return policy. Try the new piece with you own tops, pants or shoes. Besides, says Lori Eskowitz-Carter, costume designer for Will & Grace, "the lighting may be better at home, and you won't feel pressured."
KEEP TRACK OF WHAT WORKS "Take time to try on different designers, because fit is the key. Try on pants in particular," says Mark Gill of the personal shopping service New, in Chicago. When you find a designer or a line that fits you well, look at those clothes first.
NEVER SETTLE "Lot's of women have only weekends to shop," Rachel Zoe Rosenzweig notes. "It can get frustrating because the stores are crowded, and it's annoying if you don't find anything. But when you start to feel like that, instead of buying just anything, go have lunch. Regroup!" Remember that "elegance is refusal," in the words of the late Diana Vreeland. "If you understand your style and know your coloring and what fits you, then walking out of a store empty handed if you don't find the right items is a noble act," declares Brenda Kinsel.

PEARLS FROM THE PROS
• "A closet starts with a good pair of jeans." - Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner of Jeffrey in New York City and Atlanta
• "If you find something you love, buy it in other colors." - Phillip Bloch, celebrity stylist
• "Never scrimp on shoes. Never." - Freddie Leiba, celebrity stylist

THE BIG PICTURE
In the midst of the madness, remember these pro strategies:
ACCESSORIES PACK A PUNCH Update your shoes, belts and handbags every season. You don't have to replace basics in good repair, but a well-chosen, up-to-the-minute accessory can make any outfit look current. It's smart to invest in a special, signature bag or pair of shoes-something fresh that reflects your own style and that you'll wear almost constantly.
BUY A WARDROBE, NOT LABELS "You shouldn't wear one designer head to toe," says Jesse Garza. "I think it's really cool when you wear nothing but a pair of jeans and a T-shirt and add your favorite Marc Jacobs coat and great shoes."
KNOW WHEN TO SPLURGE AND WHEN TO SCRIMP "Invest in standbys like black pants, a good purse and classic pumps, and spend less on trendier items," advises Eskowitz-Carter. A great coat should be a priority. Says Rosenzweig, "If you buy a black wool or Calvin Klein or Gucci coat, you'll wear it for 20 years."
LEAVE THE UNDERWEAR SEARCH FOR LAST "I recommend lingerie shopping after you've made your clothing choices," says Garza, "since it's imperative to have undergarments that allow the clothes to lie properly."
GET HELP "The best salesperson is going to be honest," says Fran Taylor. "If you find someone who tells you something doesn't look good, that's the person to work with." The sales rep is your key to the VIP track: She'll keep a record of your sizes and preferences and call when new merchandise is coming in or when a sale is starting. Some will even let you whip through the store before a major mark-down and select choice items that they'll ring up for you after the sale begins. Also, a good salesperson can be an excellent resource for all things clothing-related. Need a good dry cleaner, a weaver to fix the hole in a cashmere sweater, or a tailor? Ask the salesperson you trust.

SALE SMARTS
Working the system-and saving a bundle.
WHEN IT'S GREAT, DON'T WAIT If you see a versatile, timely piece that you love, don't bet that it will still be there when the sales kick in. "But if you're looking at a great white jacket and you have two others, take the risk; wait for the sale," says Cynthia Strickland, director of the One on One personal shopping service at Saks Fifth Avenue.
BASICS IN NEUTRAL COLORS SELL QUICKLY "You can wait for novelty items, such as colorful jackets and tops, but sharp-looking black suits and beautifully tailored pants usually don't get marked down," says Diane Parente.
THE BEST BIKINIS WON'T WAIT EITHER "Get a bathing suit at the beginning of the season, because the best ones disappear. Then buy another on sale," says Laura Mannix, studio services coordinator of Barneys New York.
USE THE SAME STRATEGY WITH FOOTWEAR "Get staple shoes like a slingback and a pump early in the season and buy other seasonal shoes like a beaded mule or sandal at the sale time," says Mannix.
A GREAT PRICE IS NOT ENOUGH As most know from sobering experience, "nothing is a bargain if it's a hideous color," in the words of Stacy Wallace-Albert.

USING THE INTERNET
Although nothing can replace the sensory pleasure of browsing in a store, the Web can be a convenient alternative.
KNOW WHO YOU'RE DEALING WITH Before you log on to an e-commerce site, look it up on a "shopping bot" like bizrate.com. Read reviews by customers and search hundreds of online stores for the best prices on a wide range of products.
STICK TO THE BASICS Order simple styles by manufacturers and designers you know well. Also, because colors on Web sites are sometimes off by a few shades, choose basic or primary colors.
READY, CLICK, SAVE There are lots of sales online, so check favorite sites often for discounts. If you sign up for e-mail updates, stores will notify you when they're having a big sale. It's also smart to learn about the return policy before you order. Many companies offer a prepaid shipping label. The charge-about $5 to $8-is deducted from your refund. Some major retailers like Banana Republic let you return purchases at their brick and mortar stores.

COMMON MISTAKES
Bad habits and how to zap'em.
ARE YOU BUYING SEPARATES RATHER THEN OUTFITS? Start thinking in terms of whole looks. "If you invest in a black blazer, get the whole suit," says Jesse Garza of Visual Therapy. "It's hard to match blacks."
ARE YOU AN IMPULSE SHOPPER? Buying with little thought can create "dead-beat" items that take up valuable closet space and eat into your clothing budget." Try the 48-hour rule," suggests Steve Boorstein, author of The Ultimate Guide to Shopping and Caring for Clothing. "If you pass up the item and you still want it 48 hours later, it's probably a good investment."
DO DREAMS OF A PERFECT BODY CLOUD YOUR VISION? If you're buying clothes that are a little small as an incentive to drop your weight, you're cheating yourself out of looking good now. "Don't buy things with the promise to lose five pounds. If you are not feeling great in a piece of clothing, then don't get it," says stylist Phillip Bloch. "Buy for your body now. Everything can be altered later." (Taking things in is relatively easy; letting them out is much harder.)
DO YOU FORGET TO MONITOR MARKDOWNS? If you buy something and then see it go on sale in the same store a week later, you can go back and ask for the difference if you've saved the receipt, says fashion stylist Tina Chai.

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